Roadtrip Stats

Days on the road - 30
Miles Driven - 2,800 (only 500 on Interstates), the remainder on meandering back roads
Miles hiked - 135
Beds - 13

Things acquired:
A few sore and aching muscles
Multiple mosquito bites
Historical perspective
Renewed appreciation for the enormity, beauty, and diversity of the US

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Blue Ridge Parkway NC

Well, this Parkway is just wonderful. When we started we did not appreciate that it was a 470 mile long park, and we plan to drive around 400 of those miles by the time we are finished. We set off for this area a week ago, stopping to visit with an old friend of mine that I did my midwifery course with back in 1973, and actually last saw in '81 ~ but, as it is with old friends, we just picked up right where we left off, and greatly enjoyed our visit.

When we were in Asheville, NC we spent a long day touring the Biltmore Estate ~ described as a quiet “country getaway” by its owner ~ it was designed by Richard Morris Hunt for George Vanderbilt. It took 6 years to complete and was opened on Christmas Eve 1895.

This “little retreat” with its impressive entrance hall 7 stories high, happens to have 250 rooms, includes 65 bathrooms and in total has 12 acres under roof! This amazing and wonderful French Style Villa, houses unimaginable art treasures even today, and it was interesting to learn that during WWII The National Gallery of Art in Washington DC stored their priceless paintings and sculptures here, in an empty room, for safekeeping.
Every imaginable luxury/pastime was provided for guests, typically 30 at any given time. These included a bowling alley, indoor swimming pool, gymnasium, library, gun room for hunting parties, music room, and then of course there are the gardens to stroll in, or horses always at the ready to ride.
Can you just imagine the number of staff it took just to keep this home 'ticking over' not to mention the gardeners. The servants quarters alone is another story.....

As far as the eye can see, the landscape around this home appears to be naturally rolling forests, however George commissioned Frederick Law Olmested (same chap who designed Central Park in New York) to plant more than 3 million trees, taking 10 yrs. to complete.

On a MUCH smaller and intimate scale we spent another day walking around “Connemara” ~the estate of Carl Sandburg. ~ Sandburg was a well known poet, lecturer and Pulitzer-winning author. He was known for being “ The voice for the American people” and he and his wife spent 22 yrs. living on this quiet estate. I rather like the following quotation of his... “ It is necessary now and then for a man to go away by himself and experience loneliness: to sit on a rock in the forest and to ask of himself, “ Who am I, and where have I been, and where am I going ”

We are now meandering North along the beautiful Blue Ridge Parkway, comprised of 81,000 acres, described as having unsurpassed diversity of climate, vegetation, and photographic zones. This Park has been open to the public for the past 75 years, Sadly, the majestic views are becoming more difficult to see due to a haze caused by pollution. The visibility today is now decreased by 40% in the winter and 80% in the summer months making it difficult to capture decent long distance photographs. However, it it not only about the beautiful views, but the feel to the air, the pine, woodsy smell, the sound of insects/songbirds/butterflies/babbling streams, or just the quiet reflection of a lake ~ the peace that one experiences when one just takes the time to “be still” and drink in the natural beauty that surrounds us, is just so soothing for the soul, yet we tend to miss this during all those years of ~ “living to work.”

With no timetable it has been refreshing to drive short distances stopping along the way to take hikes, have a picnic or just sit and enjoy the scenery .... yes life is good, it's 3 weeks on the road now and we are still friends!!

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Myrtle Beach and Brookgreen Gardens

What a delightful week we have had relaxing in the comfortable home of our dear friend Juanita. (For those of you who remember our Alaskan travels of 2009, Juanita is wife #2.) We are thoroughly enjoying the locally grown produce from the farmers markets ~ feasting on salad fixings, sweet corn, watermelon. Also enjoying the fresh fish, shrimp, and BBQ ribs.

We managed to avoid the holiday crowds by lying low over the 4th of July w/e, I was just delighted to have the Wimbleton finals to watch during the day. In the evening, with camping chairs slung over our shoulders, we walked the one mile down to Surfside Beach, where we enjoyed one of the best firework displays we have ever seen.

While the majority of the holiday makers were enjoying the beach, on the 5th and 6th, we happily explored "Brookgreen Gardens" which back in the 1850s was a rice plantation, owned by a Joshua John Ward. It was documented that in some years he harvested 4 million ~ yes I am correct when I say million ~ pounds of rice, thanks to the 1000+ slaves he "owned" at that time. (Is it any wonder that these wealthy men of the South were in fear of slavery being abolished, but I digress.)

In 1931 Archer and Anne Hyatt Huntington (not related to the Hyatt Hotel family) bought this land and created the beginnings of Brookgreen Gardens, and created an “Outdoor Sculpture Museum" and display garden. The complete collection comprises over 1200 works, spanning the entire period of American sculpture from the early 1800's to the present. But, only 500 sculptures are displayed at a time throughout the 50 acres of these gardens. The expansive lawns, serene flower gardens, and numerous lakes provides a haven for the numerous varieties of butterflies, birds and many small wild animals, all of which we enjoyed during our hours spent there. One’s senses are just delighted with lingering fragrances throughout the many flower gardens. While we ate our picnic lunch, beside one of the beautiful reflecting lakes, butterflies danced in the breeze and bull frogs serenaded us from afar.

Set apart in a corner of this "garden" is a Labyrinth, which we chose to walk, for it is said, that if one does, "it connects the past with the present and refreshes one’s soul".

This truly is a garden to revisit over the seasons, and not one to be missed for those passing this way.

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Charleston

Well, Savannah was very quaint, but Charleston is more Majestic and Grand, both cities just steeped in history. As before, we started off our sightseeing via a 90 min guided bus tour and then hoofed it on foot around the Historic District for a few hours. The abundance of wrought iron work around the homes was very interesting, it was a sign of wealth, and the double bowed staircases leading to the front doors was so the gentlemen could use one side and the ladies the other, it would have been most improper for a gentleman to see the ankles of a lady, if he did, it was expected that he would make a proposal of marriage! The cobblestones laid in the streets were once used as ballast in the ships coming over from England. For the return trip their holds were filled with tobacco, rice, indigo dye or cotton.

Trying to decide which home see in more detail was a challenge, as they are all so varied and interesting, however, we did choose one, the Nathaniel Russell House, widely recognized as one of America's most important "Neoclassical" dwellings, geometrically shaped rooms (oval, square, and rectangle on each of its 3 floors) and a magnificent free-flying staircase leading to all levels. (I could see myself living in this home back in the 1700's! (as the lady naturally, not as the staff!)

On our way to Myrtle Beach, we stopped at one of the Plantations in Charleston, called “Boone’s Farm Plantation”, the grand home is still occupied, and the land still being used as a small farm, the produce from which we are presently enjoying with some home cooking, which after a week of eating on the road is pretty tasty. It was a most educational experience ~ History came alive for us, especially the slave history and we could actually visualize ourselves there as one of the slaves. In one of their original cabins there were finger imprints in the handmade bricks in the fireplace hearth..... all rather humbling.

The slave art of Sweetgrass basket weaving is still done to this day ~ a typical basket is priced from $90-$300 ~ and only found in the Charleston area. Like lots of other dying arts, the baskets are expected to increase in value so, we were advised that if we bought one, not to let the kids get rid of it in a garage sale after we pass on, but rather we should mention it in our will for it to be kept in the family! Good salesmanship but still very interesting! I am making a list of books I want to read, to enhance our visit here in the South.

There just was not enough time to see it all, so we didn't try; instead we have decided to spend more time in Charleston on our return trip in Sep. The reason we did not stay longer at this time was due to it being the 4th of July holiday w/e, so, instead of being caught up in all the crowds, we are quietly relaxing in Myrtle Beach at our dear friend, Juanita's, home (she is back in Denali Park Alaska, working again until Sep). As part of our “down time” we are enjoying watching the Wimbledon finals. Ron is presently off at a Stock Car Race while I am enjoying some knitting time.

One week into the trip ~ driven 900 miles ~ walked 30 miles.

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Southern Hospitality at its Best

So here we are at the beginning of our 3-month road trip, with our first stop in Savannah, a 7 hour drive from Anna Maria Island.

We found this quaint old city ~ which really had more of a “town” feel ~ to be absolutely delightful. Our first glimpse of the historic downtown area was a trolley tour, giving us an overview of the city before deciding which areas to explore on foot later in the day. It was a good opportunity to appreciate the history and architecture of the Savannah’s 22 squares in the Old Historic Downtown District. We found the layout of squares with their trees, grand homes and beautiful gardens to be just enchanting.

It really is all about the trees ~ huge live oaks ~ massively draped in Spanish moss. The squares each had a charm of their own, with statues or water fountains as added features. We actually walked 14 of these lovely squares, continually finding something to delight us.

We experienced our first taste of southern cooking from Paula Deans restaurant (arch enemy to Weight Watchers)...... oh my how do those southern gals manage to keep their figures, as it truly is 'finger licking good'.

The old Colonial Park Cemetery which is right in the middle of this district was both sobering, because we both realized we are more than twice the age of most of the deceased, and fascinating because many of the head stones had been defaced (by the changing of dates/details)during the Civil War when the troops were garrisoned there.

We have had a wonderful "Couch Surfing" experience, first night staying with George and Jake. George was a restaurateur for 10 years and treated us to a most delicious gourmet dinner, with classical music playing in the background; it was most charming and entertaining. In addition to tending his own extensive flower and vegetable garden (oh and did I mention hens), George is also know as “The Gardner” to some of the historic, downtown gardens.

Our 2nd and 3rd nights were spent with Nancy ~ a friendly gentle lady, her friendly dog and shy cat, ~ in her farmhouse, again another knowledgeable gardener, on the lovely "Isle of Hope"…such a charming community and again another wonderful experience. We enjoyed our stay in both of these homes enormously.

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